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Measure

Measure saddle-to-bar reach and drop

Measure how far and how high the handlebar sits from the saddle, compare with typical values for your kind of riding, then adjust with spacers and the stem.

Difficulty
Intermediate
Time
40 minutes

Safety

  • After moving the stem, check that the headset has no play and that the stem lines up with the front wheel, then tighten to the specified torque. A loose stem can turn while you ride.

Tools you need

  • Tape measure

    Otherwise: Steel ruler

  • Steel ruler

    Otherwise: Tape measure

  • Allen keys

    Otherwise: Multi-tool

  • Torque wrench

Step 1Prepare the bike and set the saddle first

Set your saddle height and setback first: the handlebar position is measured from the saddle, and every saddle change throws the measurement off. Then stand the bike on a flat floor, tyres inflated, against a wall or in a work stand, front wheel straight.

Find where on the bar your hands rest most of the time: the brake hoods on a drop bar, the grips on a flat bar. That is the point you are going to measure to.

Four handlebars: drop, flat and riser seen head-on, swept-back seen from above.

The shape of the handlebar changes where your hands rest.

  1. 1. Curls down: drop bar
  2. 2. Straight from end to end: flat bar
  3. 3. Rises on either side of the stem: riser bar
  4. 4. Sweeps back towards you (seen from above): swept-back bar

Step 2Measure saddle-to-bar reach

Stretch the Tape measure (or else Steel ruler) in a straight line from the nose of the saddle to the middle of where your hands rest. Write the distance down in millimetres.

Take the same measurement on the other side of the bar: both values should match. A difference of more than a few millimetres means the bar has rotated in the stem or the levers are mounted crooked.

mm

Step 3Measure the height difference

Lay the Steel ruler (or else Tape measure) flat across the saddle, halfway along its length, and measure the height from the top of the saddle to the floor. Then measure the height from the top of the handlebar to the floor, where your hands rest.

The difference between the two heights is the saddle-to-bar drop. Note which way it goes, too: bar lower or higher than the saddle.

mm

Step 4Compare with typical values for your riding

Common starting values, to adapt to how flexible you are: on a road bike, bar 4 to 10 cm below the saddle; on a gravel bike, 2 to 6 cm below; on a mountain bike, roughly level, within 2 cm either way; on a city bike, 0 to 6 cm above the saddle. A kids' bike keeps the bar between 2 cm below and 4 cm above.

Numb hands, a sore neck or a sore lower back often mean the bar is too low or too far. A bike that feels twitchy, or a very upright position that tires your back on climbs, points the other way.

Step 5Adjust the stem and spacers

To raise or lower the bar on a threadless stem, loosen the stem clamp bolts and then the top cap with the Allen keys (or else Multi-tool), move spacers from below the stem to above it or the other way round, then refit the top cap. Flipping the stem also changes the height. To bring the bar closer, you need a shorter stem.

Set the headset by tightening the top cap just enough, line the stem up with the front wheel, then tighten the stem bolts in turn to the torque printed on the stem, using the Torque wrench. Change one centimetre at a time and ride before going further.

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